Victoria Food Culture at the top - ULLA Restaurant · 26 November 2011 by colin newell
When a great restaurant opens, there is one big mistake that a diner can make – and that is…
Not getting there early – that is, when the place first opens… Well, it can be problematic.
Because as time passes, the legend (and reputation) of the restaurant develops and with that, your expectations – particularly on your first visit.
And so you know, this is not quite like taking your first trip to San Francisco or the Napa or Sonoma Valley and picking out some established places – which are probably guaranteed to be good based on “travel expectations”. Which is another phenomenon entirely… Not like that at all.
So. ULLA. It has been open over a year (maybe 1.5 years…) and the reviews have been stunning. Apparently it has achieved a coveted Top-10 Enroute rating from Air Canada… OK. Checked the link. Yes it has. Impressive.
We booked a week or so in advance because this place tends to be busy – because of its reputation. And we landed on a very, very blustery Wet Coast Victoria evening while thousands of folks were without power, Ferry boats were docked and flights grounded. Consequently, there were a few cancellations at ULLA. No problem.
The room has a comfortable and warm feeling to it – we received a very friendly greeting at the door with an offer to take our coats – We were dining with another couple who had never been there – they were seated and giddy with excitement.
Menu’s and wine list immediately in hand we were given plenty of time to mull over the adult beverage selection and ask any preemptive questions about the menu or the ULLA concept.
Within a few minutes we had glasses of wine in hand and were quickly zeroing in on appetizers and mains.
Andrea had the 63 degree soft poached Egg on a brioche, with chanterelles, cipollini onions, black garlic jus, and parmesan. Well presented but kind of a single note item – like it was missing something extra on the plate to offer contrast.
Please note that Andrea’s palette is way more advanced than mine – in short, she is a super-taster and can pull flavors off of the plate and scents out of the air that a bloodhound would miss. It is an amazing talent to see at work.
Our couple friends (much to my chagrin) ordered two of the same appetizers; Escargot… 6 on the plate with lots of drizzle flourishes.
Note: These were not just ordinary snails – they were basil fed snails.
Yup. Not kidding.
Our friends thought they were yummy, that there was not a lot of snail on the plate and that it was more art than substance. Not a nit pick folks, just an observations.
My appetizer: Edremit, gemlik, castelvetrano and picholine.
Any ideas folks?
Olives. For whatever reason, I ordered a bowl of olives to nibble on. I love olives and these were all very tasty, different and appetizing.
Mains: Here was one of those times where I felt like smacking my friends on the head.
Andrea, Steve and Sharon had the pork tenderloin…
Still meadow farm pork loin, braised cabbage, Potato roesti (hash brown), celery root, bacon, cheddar, apple, gastrique (Gastrique is caramelized sugar, deglazed with vinegar, used as a flavoring for sauces…)
The pork was perfectly prepared and presented on the three plates – a veritable art gallery of small items to taste and enjoy.
I had the halibut cheeks on a bed of beluga lentils and roast sugared almonds, tents of steamed spinach and grilled baby cauliflower caps. The cheeks were slightly overdone and watery but everything else was dreamy and perfect. I could have eaten a plate of the lentils and almonds. The baby cauliflower was sublime.
ULLA is artistry pushed to the limit. Service is polished, at the ready and entirely unobtrusive. When we had questions, there were instant answers.
It’s entirely possible that someone with unrealistic expectations would be disappointed here. For me, any minor flubs in the kitchen are made up in superlative service and understanding of the product.
For me, any overall criticism would be: ULLA is a very serious restaurant. It is not a fun restaurant. There is a ton of passion and prowess here – but it is not a place where you raise glass after glass of wine hooting and hollering with joy. The food is art and ULLA is a food art gallery. And you know what they say about Art Galleries – they are repositories of brilliant works where you hold your voice down in quiet humility while you appreciate the artistic efforts of… well… artists.
If you love food, art and art galleries, you will love ULLA. But don’t be too noisy about it. Out of 10 points per, I would rate the food at 8.5 – Service 9.5 – Presentation 9.5
Colin Newell is a Victoria area resident, food and coffee lover – and occasional writer for EAT Magazine…
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Mad about Fall Chapter 1 Vegan Texas Chili · 9 November 2011 by colin newell
One of my Monday to Friday things is a hot lunch – that is prepared by Andrea and I.
We get out for lunch a minimum of once a week (and go out for dinner at least once a week…) and generally, I have some prepared meals ready to go for lunch time.
Photo above – Leave the beef in the field where it belongs with my Vegan Chili!
Some of my favorites (that are cooked and frozen) include variants on Texas chili like Alton Browns Texas Chili – Cajun dirty rice – Jambalaya, prepared in a variety of ways.
And as much as chili is close to being my hearty favorite, I do not like the meat component so much – and I hate beans in any meals. So, here is a variation on the Alton Brown chili – featuring kit brewed Irish Ale.
Heat a large stock pot with a few tablespoons of canola oil.
Prepare 1 block of firm organic tofu by draining and cubing.
Create a spice bag with a large zip lock freezer bag adding:
1 teaspoon each – garlic powder, oregano, smoked paprika, plain paprika, cumin – and 1 tablespoon of pepper.
Add the cubed tofu to the spice bag – shake until all of it is well coated.
In oiled pan, add the tofu in 3 or 4 batches browning on both sides (about 3 minutes per side.) When done put aside on paper covered plate (to absorb excess oil)
Slice up vegetables; medium onion chopped, red pepper diced, orange pepper diced, two stalks of celery diced, Poblano pepper diced, Anaheim pepper diced, Red chili pepper and Serranno chili peppers diced.
Add to stock pot – saute for 10 minutes or until translucent.
Add 1 Chipotle chili (where a lot of the heat comes from…)
Add 1/4 cup of beer to de-glaze. Cook it off for around 2 minutes.
Add large tin of diced tomatoes.
Add 2 bottles of salsa (one hot, one medium)
Added 2 tablespoons of chili powder and 2 teaspoons of cumin.
Add 12 fluid ounces of beer and 60 nacho chips (seriously, the chips thicken the chili).
Add 1 large tin of drained chick peas.
Bring to boil. Then add tofu. Reduce to simmer for 1 hour.
Serve with corn chips and beer.
This dish is vegetarian friendly and equally nutritious to anything with meat in it.
Dining out in Victoria - Vis-a-vis - Oak Bay Avenue · 3 September 2011 by colin newell
There are fewer things finer than dropping what you are doing (in my case blogging…) and grabbing the car keys, camera bag and my hungry wife to pop out for some spontaneous dining.
In this case – Vis a vis Wine Bar on Oak Bay Avenue.
One of our favorite local places is Stages in Fernwood – and this place is a little like Stages; charcuterie, small plates and lots of wines to sample in small glasses – or large glasses if you are so inclined.
Vis a vis is a partnership with The Penny Farthing pub next door on Oak Bay Avenue – but that is where the similarity ends. While sitting on the sidewalk patio, many many people walked by and turned into The Farthing… and that is OK. This is a completely different place. A great place. We came curious and hungry.
And we left satisfied with a new place to take ourselves… and friends.
Menu items below: Squid with squid-ink fettucini, Pork belly, grapefruit, endive, maple & onion caramel, Beef fennel salami & Juliet brie.
Summer food 2011 revisited La Belle Patate Esquimalt · 5 August 2011 by colin newell
As fond as I am for the great cafe culture, of which Victoria, B.C. is truly blessed,
there are some real restaurant gems in Victoria and it is not so much the food (because the food is important unto itself) but it is the heart and soul of the people that create and work these restaurants that bring magic to the table.
Mathieu (Matty) Lott, owner and creator of La Belle Patate is at 1215 Esquimalt Road in Esquimalt. He knows his potatoes, his cheese curds, his customers and he loves all of them in equal measure.
Andrea, Matty and I sit in the pleasant August sun on the sidewalk patio, full of happy folks tucking into their poutine, burgers and smoked meat sandwiches.
What strikes me is the warmth and ease that Matty exhibits among his staff and appreciative clientele. At a youthful 36, Matty is coming up on 4 years in the business – 4 wonderful years – success measured in bags of potatoes, bushels of cheese curds and smiles… and an endless procession of smiles of customers. He knows them all.
The poutine formula has been good for Matty and La Belle Patate. Poutine is a dish of French fries, topped with a thick vegetable gravy and a covering of Island made cheese curds. We always order a “small” between the two of us – and two all-dressed “Steamie” hot dogs – crazy comfort food – steamed hot dogs (and buns) loaded down with pickled cabbage (saurkraut) and mustard. Brilliant. Pure love.
Matty was recently contacted by the good folks at Guy Fieri’s “Diners, Drive-ins and Dives…” – and Matty has conflicted feelings about the extra exposure. “It is a mixed blessing… in 3 years, we are going full out… 1200 pounds of potatoes a week! That kind of exposure could double our traffic… and right now we are in a perfect place!”
Having Matty join Andrea and me on the sidewalk patio for what seemed like 15 minutes was brilliant. Next time I am doing an audio recording. I could listen to Matty talk potatoes and his loyal customers for an hour.
Back to the reality of his poutine: It’s the real thing. I noted to Matty that I have a fairly good following on Facebook and Twitter (as well as all the devoted readers on the blog and coffeecrew website). There is lots of chatter about poutine, almost daily in fact. And here is the thing – La Belle Patate is the only city poutine that I can take seriously. Sure you can get some freaky gourmet treatment of poutine in a fancy restaurant in the Victoria area – and among some other joints that mean well – but La Belle Patate is the only game in town.
We sip on our iced tea, polish off our last gravy dressed fries and exchange warm handshakes with Matty – he is in a happy place doing what he loves best – making happy people happier and creating poutine converts on an almost daily basis.
Food is love. No kidding.
La Belle Patate is located at 1215 Esquimalt Road a half-block past the Civic Center and Esquimalt’s original strip mall. Bon apetit!
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Summer food 2011 Food preview Bubbys Kitchen Cook Street Village · 3 August 2011 by colin newell
Andrea and I were honored to have been invited to a soft opening evening sneak preview at Bubby’s Kitchen – Cook and Oscar in the wonderful Cook Street Village in Victoria.
One of the joys of being an “aspiring” food writer and long time food and drink blogger – as well as having the privilege of calling some of Victoria’s best food providers as personal friends… is the opportunity to look “under the hood” a few days in advance of the lucky people that will soon be enjoying this welcomed addition to the never static Cook Street Village South.
Bubby’s Kitchen is center anchor in a trio of newcomers to the corner of Oscar and Cook Street; a pet store on the left and a Hot House Pizza place on the right.
Bubby’s Kitchen is a very spacious and airy addition to the Bubby Rose family of food stuff providers in Victoria – and, as Tony Bennett sang, “The best is yet to come and, babe, won’t it be fine?” One part bistro. One part deli. One part cafe. 100% family friendly meeting place.
Bubby’s will feature a patio and wine and beer. Wonderful long hours… 7ish til 10 PM 6 days a week (Closed Mondays). And everything you love about Bubby Roses’s – Cook and Meares – scaled up.
The food. More of the comfort classics you would imagine from Mark and Valerie (and partner Joel) – Burgers, Pasta, salads… all day breakfast items – plus a special breakfast menu that made me tingle with anticipation!
Click photo at left for artists rendition of Bubbys Kitchen
Details? Too early to reveal folks! More in a few days.
Andrea and I shared a Bison burger and a plate of awesome Ravioli over bottles of Blue Buck Beer. Again, tease details here readers. Do not want to give up too much as of yet.
We both have a very, very, very good feeling about this place. The excitement is palpable – and I am sure residents of the Cook street village (and beyond) are humming. Possible full opening some time next week.
The best is yet to come and, babe, won’t it be fine The best is yet to come, come the day you’re mine
Summer sips and food - Canoe Club Victoria - 2011 - August · 1 August 2011 by colin newell
I have always had a fondness for The Canoe Club in Victoria. The beer is good. The food is often creative. The staff are usually long term and super friendly and professional. My single warning for Canoe Club is – avoid them on Fridays after work and, maybe, during prime time (lunch and dinner) on Saturdays. They tend to get swamped on Fridays so we always play it safe and go at 2 PM… on any day of the week.
Picture (Click on it) above: Ploughman’s Lunch – selection of cured meats, local Hilary Cheese, pickles, pate and artisan breads… – Panasonic Lumix 8Mp Camera
I am not a beer expert, but the beers are fairly reliable and generally mature by the time they hit your glass – and what I mean by that is… the brewmaster knows what he is doing and the beer comes out of the kegs when the time is right – not a moment before.
The Canoe club, quite arguably, has the best patio scene in Victoria. If you have ever been in any other city in Canada… like Toronto, Ottawa or Halifax – you know the patio scene is the thing – especially this time of the year.
Your blogger sips the seasonal Canoe Club Wheat Ale…
Because of Victoria’s notably short summer season (and the fact that you can count on one hand generally the number of hot summer evenings) the evening patio groove can be slim at times. Bottom line – evening on warm evenings, it can be cool near the water.
The Canoe is perfect for summer days because the patio is ideally located on an inlet and not right on a large body of water – and the layout and design of the patio affords some protection from cool breezes.
In the photo, above, Andrea and I shared the Ploughman’s – cured meats, cheeses, some veg, pate and bread – and as I would discover in a few hours… low on the protein for one 6’ 2” dude. I had a sleeve of Summer Wheat Ale (I call it the chick beer…) and Andrea had the IPA. As always, the beer is good.
Victoria has lots of great food and drink places – so get out there and enjoy them while the weather permits.
Colin Newell is a Victoria area resident and occasional writer for EAT Magazine…
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